I still remember everything about leaving for Tanzania. I remember my goodbye party—and all the people that came to say farewell. I remember writing letters upon letters to people—frantic efforts to say thank you. I remember looking at my grandma in the nursing home, knowing inside my heart that it would be the last time I got to hold her hand. Two days before departure, I remember playing ping pong until midnight at a friend’s Christmas party with some of my best friends. I remember the drive to the airport—I [...]

Greetings friends from Africa. I hope that everyone is ok, especially concerning the events surrounding the recent bombing at the Boston Marathon—my prayers and condolences go out to all the runners, spectators, and families affected by that tragedy—as well as the millions of other people affected around the world every day by similarly evil acts. I ran in a marathon, and trying to imagine a bomb going off as I cross the finish line or as I watch from the sidelines is a horribly scary thought—and I truly pray for [...]

Greetings are important here. You greet everyone: vendors, family, people on the bus, friends, your boss, the cleaning lady, people who are praying, eating, talking, sleeping. For good measure I even throw a “Ça va?” towards the neighborhood mutt. It’s a way of manifesting politeness and showing respect. “I see you. I’m acknowledging your personhood. I recognize that you are here with me.” This different mode of interaction took me a while to internalize. In the States, we don’t like to bother people. If someone is in the middle of [...]

Walking onto the campus of the Institut de recherche pour le développement felt like teleporting out of Dakar. The concrete walls dampened the sounds of traffic and bird calls emanated from the many trees. I was nervous to start my internship here, to once again be in the middle of a whole lot of “new”, but I needn’t have worried. Turns out research labs are pretty similar the world over and that my time at the IRD has been a small preview of what I imagine my return to the US will feel like: disconcerting familiarity. [...]

I have not forgotten you all, but I know—it has been a LONG time since I’ve given you all an update. Forgive me for the delay–life just happens, and I’ve been so busy. This blog post today marks the third month that I have been here in Tanzania and I can’t believe it is already late March. Too fast too fast–only one more month here at school until I move on to my summer volunteering. My life has been wild–so much going on. We have taken numerous trips out and [...]

I want to dedicate this blog post to the Tanzanian people. This blog post is not about me or my time really, but more about a serious injustice I have come across: the state of healthcare in this country. Consider the following post less of a personal reflection, and more of an educational/personal rant… if that even makes any sense. I also caution that some of the information below is graphic and disturbing, but it is incredibly important to understand. This may not make you feel good, and I apologize [...]

These are a few moments that I’ve wanted to share but that haven’t warranted their own post. Jamm ak jamm – Sophie  The toddler Abdou, covered from chin to knee in drool as usual, waddles up to my door grasping the finger of my host brother who prompts him. “Soapie! Keey lekk!” he chirps. Cutest and stickiest call to dinner I’ve ever heard.   The preferred cookie in Senegal is the Biskrem. The original is a crisp sugar cookie with a soft chocolate center but they are also available in [...]

My friends and family… AND EVERYONE! HAMJAMBO RAFIKI?! It has been a long time, and I apologize for not posting as I had promised. I have been SO busy running all over this beautiful country taking in everything. So again my apologies! I miss all of you, but I’m getting more and more comfortable with everything here—including the public transit, which two months ago, I almost had a heart attack because I’d never seen a van packed with 30 people! There’s no stay like the homestay! In this long blog [...]

After 5 months (!) here, I’ve hardly mastered the Senegalese culture, not that I ever thought that would be possible. There are, however, a few lessons I’ve managed to glean from my experiences. Here are a few things I’ve learned so far. If a guest comes over, quick grab a chair! Or a box or a tub, good God get something! Corollary: If 1000 people showed up unexpectedly to a Senegalese household, there would be no problem finding everyone a seat. The fine art of sitting quietly for hours doing [...]

On Sunday this past week, I went outside and kicked the soccer ball around with Shedrack (my brother) and his friend Lewis. Then the neighbor guy walked over. Now, I’ve met this guy before, his name is Michael. My family invited him over for dinner a few nights ago. Turns out he is 24 and studying at the nearby Makumira University to become a teacher. Anyway, as we were out back playing soccer, Michael walked over and I went to shake his hand. Greetings are very important here—so I practiced [...]

It’s very hard to believe that today marks one whole month that I have been in Africa. If that was one month, the next seven are going to pass by so quickly. So in thinking of a good way to summarize everything that has happened to me, I’ve compiled a list that I think represents my experience and my impressions so far. Enjoy: You know you are in Africa (Tanzania) when: Your host family tells you straight up that they have an explicit goal to make you 20 pounds heavier [...]

Alright, here we finally are: The details that have been my life for the last three or so weeks. To start, let’s go back to the beginning for a brief crash course in “The Hermann’s take on Tanzania.” My whole family left Minneapolis on Christmas Day, and spent a night in Amsterdam to adjust to the time. The next morning we took off for Kilimanjaro International Airport, arriving around 10:00 PM, local time. Greeted by our amazing safari driver, Joseph of SENE Company, we were quickly whisked away to a lodge in [...]

Ok. This blog post is unique, because it’s not the three-week long summary that you are all expecting of what has been my life—instead it’s a brief story of what just happened to me—a story that took place earlier today. I feel compelled to write about it because it melted my heart, and gave me strength being here alone in my hotel. I went down to the hotel lunch room to order lunch. There are about four consistent ladies always working in the kitchen, that I have come to know. [...]

I spent the holidays in Britain and it was everything I hoped it would be: family, cheer, hot showers, a chance to tell a few of my crazy stories, an exhalation after months of bated breath. I anticipated leaving this happy scene with difficulty, that the idea of Senegal would seem to be an abyss of the unknown. Fortuitously, the words of a vendor I chatted with some months ago proved true: “Mother Africa is jealous, you know, she never really lets go.” And while Dakar is only one tiny [...]

What should you bring to Senegal? Well… Pack a lot of underwear and an extra towel. Don’t forget your toothbrush. Those are the basics; with them you’ll get through just about anything.    Bring a nice shirt (you’ll quickly grow tired of dressing like a slob) and leave the running shoes. It’s hot as hell here, do you really need to jog?   Have some clothes you’re convinced are indestructible? Perfect! No better way to test them out than months of surprisingly aggressive hand-washing.   Buy an entire pharmacy worth [...]